![]() ![]() With a rust converter and remover, you can apply a chemical that actually takes oxidation - or rust - and makes it disappear. ![]() However, there are solutions, like rust converters and removers. Unfortunately, rust isn’t easy to get rid of once it forms. And when your car is involved, rust is an even bigger concern. You’ll wind up with deterioration that you just can’t fix. ![]() It weakens and destroys wherever it’s present, meaning you can’t let rust continue to grow. Over time, rust can literally eat away at metal, leaving behind holes, and damaging the appearance of different components and tools. Rust may seem like a simple fact of life, but once it appears, it only keeps growing. For these we would also recommend a coating of protective wax such as Bilt-Hamber’s Dynax UB (below) to complete the protection and ensure the car remains rust free for many more years.If you’ve ever faced years of rust and corrosion on metal parts, you know just how annoying it is to remove - and how damaging it can be. Something like Hammerite is fine to paint areas you don’t see, such as wheelarches and floorpans. Any areas that are holed will need welding, so don’t waste your time with treatment, but surface rust should be rubbed with a wire brush and then painted with a converter. If you are treating a rust bubble on the bodywork, you will want to remove as much of the rust as possible before treating or it will soon reappear under any filler and top coat. If you are getting underneath a car, make sure you use axle stands or ramps and wear eye protection and a mask. An advisory in the MoT for surface corrosion is likely to mean welding will be needed the next year unless you tackle it now. If you – or the MoT tester – spot some rust, then don’t waste any time getting it sorted, because it’s not going to get any better. If a spray isn’t suitable for the job, we’d recommend the Bilt-Hamber Hydrate-80 for tackling larger areas, and the Hammerite Kurust for smaller repairs. Be careful not to get it confused with the liquid equivalent though, because this had a woeful result. Jenolite’s spray was easy to apply, and offered the best protection at a reasonable price. We were surprised by the results of this test, but the samples don’t lie. We then scored them on ease of use, rust-resisting performance and price. Once dry, the samples were then doused daily in salty water for four weeks to encourage any corrosion to reappear. One side of the steel sample was left unpainted while the other was sprayed with a single coat of primer and acrylic top coat, replicating a typical DIY repair. We left sections of 1mm unpainted mild steel to gently corrode outside over the course of several months, then let them thoroughly dry before treating both sides with our products, carefully following the instructions. There are numerous types of these potions on the market, and they all claim to be the best, so we tested a selection of products to see which you should trust to sort your rust. These stop reaction in the metal using special ingredients, which neutralise the corrosion and allow you to paint over it. Rust removal involves spending hours with a wire brush or strong acidic chemicals that are dangerous to use, so it is far easier and safer to use a rust converter. The bad old days of a car having rust holes before its first MoT have disappeared, but look underneath the average five-year-old vehicle and you might be shocked at how much corrosion lurks below.Įven on the bodywork a stone chip or scratch can soon grow into a nasty blister, and you need to treat rust properly to stop it spreading.
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